Tomatoes 101
Dear Very Kind Persons:
Several people have asked about the Tomatoes 101 page which is not
e-mailable because it is a scrapbook type page of drawings etc. So
here is an attempt to tell you about it.
First know that other people know much more about it than I do. "The
Tomato Handbook: Tips and Tricks for growing the best tomatoes" by
Jennifer Bennett is a reasonable book. It is 92 pages. "Giant
Tomatoes: giant yields- giant weights" by Marvin H. Meisner, M.D. is
more fun. It is 148 pages. Dr. Meisner goes for the giant vegetable
approach of gardening. He went around the east coast and found winners
of past national giant tomato growing competitions and interviewed them
on about everything: seed sprouting, seed varieties, fertilizers,
watering........ no stone was left unturned. He put all these
interviews and varying views with lots of colored photos into his book
and a person just has to love it. It's just so crazy to think of coming
up with a 8 lb. tomato and some of the true stories are just very
fun. But, look! EVERY gardening book has a tomato
section and I have found there is something new to be learned from every
one of them. To continue..................
In Utah...... we suffer from longer winter days than the giant tomato
winners have. We must get at least a 50 day head start growing our
tomatoes indoors before we would dare put them outside. (even for the
non giant tomatoes) Whereas these other folks have milder winters and
they can set their prize tomato plants out in February sometimes or even
March.
Well... last winter I was going to do this. I ordered about 100
packages of one of the biggest varieties of tomato (mentioned in the
book) ever grown from a certain seed company. It was time to send
out the tomato letter to my ward and I wanted to give each person a tiny
envelope with four of these amazing seeds for each family to try. All
the packages of seeds were opened by my kids and we dumped them all out
on my black kitchen countertop. WHAT A SURPRISE !!!!!. Even though
these were all from a famous company...... the diversity was ENORMOUS
!!!
Some seeds were as tiny as dust. Some were big and plump. Some were
almost a dark brown. Some were pure white. I was just stunned.
This surely speaks to being able to save your own seeds and to select
the most gorgeous.
Once I had a book about a man in the Guiness Book of World Records who
grew the TALLEST tomato in the world down in the south. It was like 30
feet high. Every day he did this and that to it from a tall ladder.
The whole was supported every two feet by enormous metal supports etc.
etc. He used a cherry tomato seed but, would open lots of cherry
tomatoes and only pick the very biggest and plumpest seeds to then
start. He made his own strain after the years by always hand selecting
the most robust seeds. There was an entire chapter on being very
picky about the seeds you spend your time growing.
So, being a somewhat selfish person....... I decided to keep the 50
biggest and best seeds on my counter for myself and divide the other
1,458 seeds out among my ward members. (The smallest ones I did not save
because they were thin or deformed or cracked or all wrinkly looking.)
Some people did sprout their seeds but, because I am always at the
MTC I have not heard about their successful progress except I have heard
a few sad cases where terrible accidents happened to their paper cups of
sprouted seeds or whatever. But, the season is still young.
My 50 seeds were then put into my garage greenhouse.
Now if you want to sprout seeds in your garage or basement let me tell
you I HAD THE MOST AMAZING SUCCESS I HAVE EVER HEARD OF.
This is how it is done: You buy at Cook's Greenhouse one of the
clear/milky plastic pop up greenhouses. Mine is only 6' by 6'.
These are between $150.00 and $200.00 (At the end of the season they
might be on sale.) Or you could order them through
www.flowerhouses.com
which is a greenhouse company advertised in the
back sections of most gardening magazines. Then you pop it up. The
new varieties have extra poles to support it inside. I have strong
sons who got the poles into the tent sides (my first greenhouse didn't
need this) but, you would need a husband or home teacher to help because
it's a bit hard to get the poles all stretched inside. I think if you
skipped putting these poles in that it would be OK also.
There is a zippered door at each end of the greenhouse with 2nd door
zippered door at each end also. The second doors are made of mesh in
case you want the wind to go through but, not the insects.
Then you are going to need shelves down the right hand side of this
greenhouse and another bank of shelves down the left hand side. I
purchased mine at Home Depot. They are plastic. The shelf parts have
sort of slats so water can go right through the shelf. Or in other
words don't get the kind with a solid shelf. Mine have four shelves
per unit. Each side of my greenhouse has TWO 3' shelf units. Each
shelf unit is THREE feet long and EIGHTEEN inches wide.
Therefore you will need two THREE foot long shelf units on each side to
fill the left side with 6' of shelves and ditto the right. I can't
remember how much these cost but, they WILL definitely last forever.
Now you are going to need the lights. So you walk over to the lighting
section of Home Depot. There they sell shop lights many of which are
FOUR feet long. I did the four feet because when you get in your
greenhouse sometimes you want to put watering cans or fertilizers or a
little spoon or something at the ends of the 6' shelves so I did not use
for planting 1' at the end of each side of my greenhouse.
Now the SECRET here is that you need more light than people tell you.
So you will need TWO 4' shoplights mounted on the bottom of each
shelf. If you buy two per shelf for a total of 6 shelves (left side
and right side) (but actually the top shelf is left unlighted)...
(Because there isn't anything to hang lights on for that top shelf)...
so if you buy two 4' shop lights for six shelves that would be TWELVE
shop lights. You are gasping but, you WILL NEVER BE SORRY.
Now which kind of shop light do you want? There really are so many
choices. I purchased 'Commercial Electric Shop Light with pull chain
switch and heavy duty lamp grid', but, you might find something you
like better. You won't be using the pull chain switch because all of
this is going to be on a timer anyway.
They give you a little wee "S" hook for each end of the shop light.
THESE ARE WAY TOO SMALL TO HOOK OVER THE 'SLATS' in your plastic
shelving. So you must go to the "S" hook section of Home Depot and
purchase larger "S" hooks. You will need 2 S hooks per 4' shop light or
a total of 12 "s" hooks. These then go over one of the many slats
in your shelf and they hook into the top metal of the shop light or many
shop lights have little chains hooked onto the top of each end for easy
hanging and the "S" hook goes right into a link of the chain and then
right over one of the shelf slats AND IT IS JUST SO AWESOME AND SO NIFTY
I JUST THINK ITS ONE OF THE MOST FABULOUS THINGS I HAVE EVER DONE.
Now....... the "S" hook I have found which works best after many trips
to home depot back and forth trying this one and then that one is;
"Lehigh" #7152 Stainless Steel S hook .177" x 2-1 1/8" 0,45 cm x
5,4 cm
These are just so great.
Now comes the problem of which long lights to buy for your shop light
fixture?
There are many choices. I have heard people preach you must have the
40 watt 48" bulbs for the most power.
BUT....... as I was standing there before all the choices a man came
up (I think he may have been one of the 3 Nephites) because he knew ALL
about electricity and bulbs and everything. He said, no I need the 32
watt because they are new technology and they last so so much
longer.... ever so much (I wish I could remember.) AND he helped me
choose the perfect attributes of the perfect bulb and I am very
grateful. I had one greenhouse with the 40 watt bulbs from 2 years
ago. And the 2nd new garage greenhouse with the 32 watt different
spectrum bulbs and I imagined that all the tomatoes in the 2nd one did
a mite better. But, how can someone really know this for sure when
they were all different varieties.
Now......... take all your plugs from all these lights and plug them
all into ONE COMPUTER PLUG STRIP.
These are also available at Home Depot.
Now......... take the one plug from the computer strip and put that
one on a timer. I recently learned that tomatoes do NOT like to have
light on them 24/7. They only like light on them 14 hours a day.
This is where my brain, however, had exhausted its capacity and I have
still not yet put the timers on. My tomato starts had light 24/7 and
they seemed to do GREAT !
In fact, my little greenhouses were so filled with starts.... the
lights kept the inside of the greenhouses very warm all winter. Even
though our garage was unheated also and it was freezing outside. EVERY
SINGLE SEED I planted in my little warm (from the lights) and very humid
(from the plastic greenhouse) seemed to sprout.
AND SO SOON. In all I planted about 30 kinds of tomato this year. I
used many growing mediums: peat pellets, nursery flats, little nursery
6 packs, etc. It didn't matter what I grew them in old dirt, new
dirt, whatever: THOSE TOMATO SEEDS SPROUTED. Soon I had literally
100s of tomato plants and way back in the winter.
I had intentions of growing them by the south side of a metal building
we own because I heard the sun makes that a microclimate and everyone
gets their tomatoes going super early here in Utah by putting their
plants out early by such a building. But.... because of a busy life
I began giving the starts away and so sad because it was just way way
too early for anyone to do anything with such gorgeous tomato plants.
I just hadn't realized my greenhouse would be such a smashing success.
One more thing you MUST KNOW. Place your little containers (see
Tomatoes 101 part 2 because this letter is getting so very long is
anyone still reading? I don't think so.) Anyway, get some empty seed
flats and put them upside down under your planted seed flats so that the
soil surface of the barely planted seeds is only about 2" from the light
bulbs. You see? No one ever tells you this. Then you plant your
seeds too far way because you don't realize this and they grow so
stringy and lanky. They are trying to reach to the light and they look
like hairs and they will NEVER make good plants for you.
You must either raise the soil surface with the planted seeds up close
to the light by putting something under your flats like styrofoam blocks
or something. OR.... you must lower the lights down. It is so
much easier to raise your little seed cartons up.
(This is the end of what was Part 1, now on to Part 2)
One book said, "If you find an envelope of tomato seeds in your
grandmother's trunk and you would like to sprout them.."
WHAT ????
In your grandmother's trunk? HOW OLD ARE THOSE SEEDS ????
Tomato seeds can last a VERY long time. Tomato seeds are one thing
that even survive the heat of a compost pile.
The seed charts often admit tomato and pepper seeds can last ten
years. Well if they can last ten years according to a chart where all
conditions prevail. They can last at least twice that long if you
store them dry and sealed in a glass bottle in a fridge at just above
freezing temperatures.
So order tomato seeds to your heart's content. Save them in the fridge
and you will probably always be able to resprout them in your lifetime.
To sprout regular (non-ancient) tomato seeds....
- Moisten the medium. I use a ferti-seed starting mix from
Cook's Nursery.
- With tweezers or a little seed dispensing device place them on
the top of the moistened medium.
(Golden Reeves plants about 50 seeds in a margarine tub at a
time.
He transplants more often than I do.
But, he IS "The Tomato King" for all of Utah.)
- Cover the seeds by sprinkling over them with dry soil
- Pat this down so that there aren't air pockets.
- Place your little container on a styrofoam block up near the
lights in your greenhouse, zip the door.
They will be up so fast.
As your tomatoes grow know that they are pretty tough. Melons and
squash resent being transplanted after two true leaves have formed.
But, tomatoes can be transplanted and re-transplanted so many times and
they don't mind. Tomatoes have one tap root if you plant them in the
soil and never transplant them. But, when they are transplanted the
tap root breaks or is damaged and the plant just compensates and makes
more and more roots everywhere.
Some people on purpose tear off the lower leaves every time they
transplant and bury the stem down under the dirt leaving only the two
top leaves to the air and sun. They say new roots will form where the
leaves were torn off. They say this will give the plant more
strength. But, I once heard a new PhD in tomatoes say this is not
true. (What does he know? People in Utah say the opposite so I don't
know on this one.) [Editor: We do this, and when we pull the plants up in the fall
they have roots all up and down the stem. So, I did a bit of research and found that
everywhere there is a little 'dot' on the stem, a root can start from it. Cool!]
Some people put a fan on all their tomato sproutlings because they think
this will thicken the stems and make the plants huskier and that they
will re-transplant with less shock.
Back To Table of Contents